by Chris MacAskill November 10, 2000 Day 6 |
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The question was how to get to Teotihuacan, perhaps the most spectacular ruined city in Central America, without returning the way I came and violating rule #1: never retrace your route. But the ride yesterday was so great I did it anyway as far as Cuernavaca and loved every kilometer. Then onto unbelievable secondary roads I never could have imagined would exist in Mexico. They were full of smooth, sweeping, banked turns that made me think I was dreaming. A very small number of things could shatter such a perfect afternoon, and the most simple of all did: I lost my map. Hello? Earth to Chris. You let the map fly out of your jacket and you don't know where? Yes, I did. And I was hopelessly lost. I tried following signs. I tried guessing. I tried stopping to ask directions. I tried finding another map. Nothing worked. In frustration, I took off my jacket and jammed it between the seat and topbox and rode to the next town. And when I arrived, the jacket was gone too. With the roll of film I shot in the pocket. This was getting serious. I couldn't make it home without a jacket. I'd freeze. And get soaked. And Mexican stores wouldn't have my tall size. I went back to search roadside, but it was no use. I finally saw a sign to Mexico City and followed it. I could still see Teotihuacan in the morning. As I crossed the pass on the way to Mexico City, I set my electric vest and sleeves to Blacken but froze anyway. I arrived after dark. I found another map but no jackets fit. |
Up early again, this time with jeans, a T-shirt, no helmet, and no luggage on the bike. I spent the morning riding breathtaking twisty roads above cliffs and walking on beaches. There wasn't enough wind to windsurf. It's the first time I've ridden without a helmet. Won't happen again. But I felt better after washing the bugs from my eyes.